Coconut Popsicles

It’s summer! I know this because I wore sandals and a T-shirt to the store today and was almost too hot standing still in one place (exciting times). In honour of that, here are some tasty frozen things. I was going to call them ‘ice pops’, for no apparent reason other than novelty, maybe? Then I realized that was silly, because everyone I know calls them popsicles and I’ve always called them popsicles… so that’s what they’ll be.

Instead of using proper measurements and all that, I’m going to do this recipe mostly by proportion. Decide how many you want to make, and then grab a mason jar that will fit that amount of liquid. I made seven, and my jar was 18 oz., although this will change depending on the size of the popsicles. The most important thing is tasting and adjusting.

So, take your jar, fill it about 1/3 the way up with plain yogourt, then fill the rest with coconut milk. Now add 2 or 3 teaspoons of unsweetened shredded coconut, 2 tsp of ground cardamom, 1/2 tsp vanilla, and 3-4 tsp sugar (skip if you’re using sweetened coconut milk). Screw the lid on tightly and shake the jar over the kitchen sink –  just in case. When you’re satisfied the ingredients have all gotten to know each other, pour the mixture into popsicle molds and stick them in the freezer for a few hours until ready. If you’re in that kind of mood, toss some sprinkles in the bottom of the molds before adding the liquid. Eat this strangely twee creation in the warmth of your backyard, while reading an Ishiguro novel, preferably under the plum tree.

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Baked eggs – for when you have too much arugula

This recipe is titled “Baked eggs with yogurt and chile” in Ottolenghi’s Plenty, but I think it is more accurate to describe it as “what to do when you’ve got a LOT of arugula” (or spinach, or a similar green). I was helping my mother in her garden and she had an awful lot of arugula. So much arugula that I took home a shopping bag full, which is about what this recipe calls for. The original recipe calls for a Turkish spice called kırmızı biber – I didn’t have this, but the suggested substitution was chile flakes and paprika. It worked quite well. I increased the amount of spices, too, because… well, because I wanted to.

See that photo? That is a huge frying pan – the biggest one I’ve got – and I’ve already wilted some of the arugula and added more on top. So if you’ve been overenthusiastic with your arugula planting and don’t know what to do, this is the recipe for you. Serves two. Tasty with sourdough toast for brunch or dinner.

You will need:
3/4lb (about 14 cups) arugula
2 Tbsp olive oil
salt
4 eggs
3/4 cup Greek yogurt
1 garlic clove, crushed
4 Tbsp unsalted butter
1/2 tsp chile flakes
1/2 tsp sweet paprika
6 sage leaves, shredded

Preheat the oven to 300F. Heat the oil in a large pan, add the arugula and just wilt it – don’t cook it longer, as it will be going in the oven. Transfer the wilted arugula to an ovenproof dish and make 4 indentations in the greens for the eggs. Crack an egg into each indentation, then put the dish in the oven and bake for 10-15 minutes, or until the egg whites are set. **Note: do not trust your eyes. The eggs will not look done when they are. I trusted my eyes and my eggs got overcooked. Check their doneness by poking them, NOT just by looking at them!**


While the eggs are baking, mix the yogurt and garlic together with a little salt. Set aside at room temperature (don’t chill). Then melt the butter in a small saucepan. Add the chiles, paprika and a pinch of salt and cook for a couple of minutes, until the butter is foaming and looks a nice orange-red colour. Add the sage and cook for a few more seconds, then remove from the heat.

When the eggs are cooked, take them out of the oven, spoon the yogurt on top and drizzle the chile-sage butter over everything. Serve.

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Spring Pasta

Broccolini is an adorable food. I usually wouldn’t admit to purchasing something out of sheer cuteness, but here we are – I bought the broccolini because it was cute. Then I reminded myself it was also tasty, and I could eat it rather than just letting it look pretty in the fridge. Add oyster mushrooms (oh HECK yes) and more parmesan than strictly necessary, and you’ve got yourself a fine springtime lunch.

Penne with Broccolini and Oyster Mushrooms

-enough dry pasta for 1, an amount that depends on how hungry/gluttonous you’re feeling

-1 large bunch broccolini, washed, dried, and roughly chopped

-2 cloves garlic, minced

-about 2 cups oyster mushrooms (mine were pre-sliced but if they’re not too big you could cook them whole)

-1 or 2 tbsp of grated parmesan cheese

-various amounts of olive oil for grilling, frying, and tossing

-salt and pepper to taste

Toss the mushrooms in a baking dish with olive oil, salt, and pepper, then put under the grill until the edges are crispy – 10-15 minutes. (The kitchen will smell weird; it’s OK. The scent dissipates pretty quickly, and the mushrooms don’t taste the way they smell while  grilling.) Meanwhile, put a pot of water on the stove to boil, and cook the pasta – usually 9 minutes for very al dente; I went with 11. Also meanwhile, lightly sauté the broccolini and garlic in a large frying pan. Don’t overdo it, as you still want a bit of a crunch to the vegetables.

When all of the constituent parts are ready, toss everything in a large bowl, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. I find it’s most satisfying to have way more veggies/oysters than noodles, maybe twice as much. Not as heavy that way, and more flavour, especially when using dried pasta. Finally, sprinkle the dish with parmesan, and eat immediately (i.e., don’t spend so long photographing your lunch that it gets cold). Now get outside and enjoy that fresh April air.

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Chocolate Pudding Tart

The plum tree outside my bedroom window is at its flowery peak right now. I woke up and saw a cloud of white blossoms (hazy, pre-glasses) and knew something good would happen today. After a warm cottonwood-scented bike ride, I came home, put on some Beirut, and decided that the good thing would be chocolate-y. And in a tart shell. And also super easy; this is the simplest dough ever.

The original inspiration came from smittenkitchen, the tart dough recipe came from David Lebovitz, and the pudding recipe came from just homemade. I was out of eggs and didn’t have the patience for a proper ice-cold, hands-in-the-bowl pie dough, which is why I ended up cobbling together a couple different ideas. The tart shell is great; I’ve used it before, it’s got crispy edges and a nice buttery taste. I have to admit – this wasn’t the best pudding I’ve ever had. It wasn’t bad, but I found myself wishing it had less cornstarch and more actual chocolate. If you do have eggs, Joy’s chocolate-hazelnut pudding is amazing, although very rich. Of course, if you’ve already got a perfect pudding recipe locked down, there’s no need to experiment further. Go with what works.

For the dough:

just under 1/2 cup butter (officially it’s 3 ounces – I don’t have a scale, so I estimated and it worked fine), cut into pieces

1 tbsp olive oil

3 tbsp water

1 tbsp sugar

1/8 tsp salt

1 rounded cup all-purpose flour

First, mix the butter, oil, water, sugar and salt in a large oven-proof bowl. This goes into a 410° oven for about 15 minutes, until the butter starts to bubble and brown a little bit (it will smell nutty). Remove the bowl and dump in the flour, stirring until it comes together into a dough. Transfer this into a pie dish and spread it around a bit with a spatula, then wait till it cools somewhat before pressing it in with your fingers. Poke the shell all over with the tines of a fork, then return it to the oven for another 15 minutes, until the dough is golden-brown. Remove and let cool.

For the chocolate pudding:

3 tbsp corn starch (I don’t know if that much is really necessary. It alters the flavour, so less might be better)

3 tbsp cocoa powder

1 1/2 cups milk

3 tbsp sugar

1/8 tsp salt

3 tbsp dark chocolate chips

1 tbsp butter

1-2 tbsp spiced rum, if like me you’re being cheap about a dwindling vanilla supply (otherwise 1 tsp vanilla extract)

Bring 1 cup of milk to boil in a medium saucepan. Whisk together all the dry ingredients, then add the 1/2 cup of milk to these and stir well until totally blended. Once the milk is boiling, add the chocolate mixture to the saucepan, and reduce the heat to a simmer. Stir continuously until the pudding is thickened. The original recipe says this takes at least 10 minutes; mine took less, about 6 or 7. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter and rum. Let cool.

Once both the tart and the pudding have mostly cooled down, use a spatula to pour the pudding into the tart shell. I did my best to smooth the top, but it wasn’t very co-operative, as you can see above. This might depend on your calibre of spatula. Chill the tart in the fridge for a while, until the pudding has finished setting. Top with whipped cream before serving, if you have it. I’m imagining this with toasted nuts on top… maybe sliced strawberries when those are in season. Or a scoop of vanilla icecream. Or all of those options. Whoah.

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Burnt Eggplant with Tahini

Also known to many of us as “baba ganoush,” this eggplant dip is delicious and I’ve made it three times now instead of getting on with cooking new things from the cookbook. I’ve also made black pepper tofu (very spicy!) and saffron cauliflower, but I may not get around to blogging those any time soon. Life is… life. My grandfather died over the Easter Weekend and the whole family congregated in Lethbridge for the funeral last week. Helping to read the eulogy was a good way for me to feel like I had said goodbye, in some small part. And now I am supposed to be studying physiology, but I keep forgetting that I’m taking an online course and end up watching Downton Abbey instead.

But on with the eggplant dip. If I’ve bothered to make it three times, it must be good.

Ingredients:
1 large eggplant
1/3 cup tahini paste
1/4 cup water
2 tsp pomegranate molasses (check Middle Eastern food markets for this)
1 Tbsp lemon juice
1 clove garlic, crushed
3 Tbsp chopped parsley
salt & pepper to taste

Optional things:
If you want to make it into a salad, get 3 mini cucumbers and 3/4 cup of cherry tomatoes to add later.
To make it look really pretty when serving, top with the seeds of 1/2 a large pomegranate and drizzle with olive oil.

First, burn the eggplant. Line a baking pan with tinfoil, prick the eggplant with a sharp knife in several places, and turn your oven on to the highest “broil” setting. Apparently if you have gas flames you can just put the eggplant on a moderate flame and roast it that way, but I can’t vouch for this. I do know the broiler works. For me it took just over 45 minutes – the eggplant should deflate and its skin should burn and break. Once your eggplant is burnt on the outside, take it out of the oven and let it cool down until you can handle it. Then scoop the flesh out of the burnt skin, discard the skin and drain the flesh in a colander for about half an hour.

Chop the drained eggplant flesh and put it in a mixing bowl. Then add all the other ingredients (except the optional things) and mix well. Taste and adjust the seasoning to suit yourself. If you’re adding cucumber and tomatoes, chop them and mix them in. Lastly, add pomegranate seeds and olive oil to garnish.

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Caramelized Garlic Tart

This one is really worth your time and money. Let’s put it this way: apparently Yotam Ottolenghi’s recipe tester told him this was the most delicious thing in the world. I’m not sure I would give any one recipe that much honour, ever, but Jason and I inhaled half of this before we even knew what had happened. Then we looked at each other and said, “I’m just going to have one more piece.” After that there were two slices left, one of which I ate for breakfast the next day and one of which I fed to Anna for lunch. The poor tart didn’t even last 24 hours.

This is not a tart for people who don’t like garlic and cheese. It’s also probably not the best recipe for vegans, I’m afraid. It contains all of the richest dairy products around, plus eggs. It is DIVINE. I guess if you hate goat cheese you could substitute some kind of cow cheese in here, and if you’re against puff pastry you could make your own tart shell. But why am I even bothering to write this stuff? You’re either going to drool over this or I’m going to think there’s something a little bit wrong with you, and that’s just the way it is.

Note: I made my tart a little bit smaller than the original recipe, because I didn’t have the proper tart pan (explained below) and my heads of garlic were small. So I reduced the heavy cream and crème fraîche by a tablespoon each – I used 5 Tbsp of each instead of 6. I’ve written out the original amounts below, though.

Ingredients:

Enough puff pastry to line a tart shell/shallow pie dish with a bit extra. I used half of a 397g package of Tenderflake and rolled it out quite thinly – this lined a nine-and-a-half inch pie dish nicely. Ottolenghi suggests 13oz of puff pastry for an 11-inch fluted tart pan, so if you’ve got one of those handy and can measure 13oz easily, go for it.
3 medium heads of garlic, cloves separated and peeled
1 Tbsp olive oil
1 tsp balsamic vinegar
1 cup water
3/4 Tbsp sugar
1 tsp chopped rosemary
1 tsp chopped thyme, plus a few sprigs for finishing
salt
4 1/2 oz soft, creamy goat cheese (like chevre)
4 1/2 oz hard, mature goat cheese (like goat gouda, although I just used a plain, mild goat cheese and it was fine) – I didn’t actually weigh out 4 1/2 oz, I just put cheese in the tart shell until it looked like enough. I’m sure you can figure this out.
2 eggs
6 1/2 Tbsp heavy cream
6 1/2 Tbsp crème fraîche
black pepper to taste

First of all, make sure you’ve thawed your puff pastry according to the directions on the package. I had a moment of panic where I realized I was all ready to go with my garlic peeled and my herbs chopped and the pastry was still in the freezer. Luckily there were microwave quick-thaw directions on the package. Technology saved the day. Roll out the pastry into a circle that will line the bottom and sides of your pie/tart dish. Once the pastry is in the pan, cut out a circle of wax or parchment paper to fit in the bottom of the pan. Place this on top of the pastry and weight it down with pennies or pie weights or something similar (dried beans are often suggested but then you can’t eat the beans, can you?). Leave the pastry-lined pan in the fridge to rest for 20 minutes or so.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Put the tart shell in the oven and blind bake for 20 minutes, then remove the weights and paper and continue baking until the pastry is golden (5 to 10 minutes more). Set it aside and leave the oven on.


Left: garlic before being caramelized. Right: after. Note that it has started majorly disintegrating.

While the tart shell is baking you can start making the caramelized garlic. I think I blanched mine for too long, or maybe used too deep of a pot or not enough garlic or something, because by the end of this process my garlic had mostly fallen apart, and it took a lot longer for the liquid to reduce than Ottolenghi said it would. Never mind, it tasted delicious anyway. First you put the garlic in a small saucepan, cover it with lots of water and bring it to a simmer for three minutes to blanch it (or maybe less if you want it to stay whole?). Drain it well, dry out the saucepan, then put it back on the heat with the garlic and olive oil. Fry the garlic for a couple of minutes, then add the balsamic vinegar and cup of water (perhaps less than a cup of water if your garlic heads are small like mine were). Bring this to a boil, then simmer it gently for 10 minutes. Add the sugar, thyme, rosemary and 1/4 tsp of salt and continue simmering until the liquid has mostly evaporated and the garlic is coated in a dark caramel syrup. Ottolenghi says this takes 10 more minutes but I think it took at least 20 for me. Maybe it’s because I use a little apartment sized electric stove and all real cooks have fancy gas ranges. Who knows. Or maybe, as I am beginning to strongly suspect, cookbook authors always lie about how long it takes to make their recipes because they don’t want you to be put off by the fact that it will take you two hours to make one little garlic tart. “If I just say it only takes ten minutes, people will be more likely to actually cook this!” is what I imagine Mark Bittman and Yotam Ottolenghi saying to themselves.

Anyhow, once you’ve caramelized your garlic, set it aside and turn your attention to the tart shell again. Break up both the types of goat cheese and scatter them around in the tart shell. Then get the garlic and spoon it (with its lovely syrup) over the cheese. In a 2 cup-measure or small jug, whisk together the eggs, cream, crème fraîche, 1/2 tsp salt and some black pepper. Pour this over the tart filling to close the gaps, making sure you can still see some garlic and cheese above the surface. Turn the oven down to 325°F, stick the tart in, and bake until the filling has set and the top is turning golden brown (this may take anywhere from 35 minutes to an hour, depending on your oven). Remove from the oven and let cool a little, then serve warm with salad, grilled vegetables, or just gobble it up all by itself.

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Mee Goreng

Eight years ago I was fortunate enough to be part of UVic’s very first tropical ecology field school in Malaysia. It was organized and lead by a wonderful man named Yousuf Ebrahim, now deceased, who, with good humour and patience, helped an irrepressible group of Canadian university students understand more about the culture of Malaysia, the five pillars of Islam, and how to travel comfortably. Sure, our main task was to study tropical ecosystems, and we certainly did – we got muddy in mangrove swamps, snorkeled over coral reefs, trekked through ant-infested jungle in search of elusive tapir, and watched at dawn as the last mother sea turtle buried her eggs in the sand and headed back out to sea – but that was only half of the real learning experience, as anyone who has travelled to a country so different from their own is well aware. We learned how to eat durian, how to get horribly sick from contaminated water (in the jungle; the tap water in cities was fine), how to swim in your clothes to avoid jellyfish stings, how to take a three-hour break in the heat of the afternoon and watch too many Bollywood music videos while everyone else goes to the mosque, how to tuck your pants into your socks in the jungle to avoid ant-bites, and how to order street food that isn’t too mind-blowingly spicy or full of gray, processed fish balls. If there’s one thing I hate, it’s those fish balls. I’m pretty sure most Malaysians love them, though, because they were in everything. But I digress.

In Plenty, the cookbook I’m challenging myself with, I came across a recipe for mee goreng, which means fried noodles in Bahasa Melayu (the language of Malaysia). I felt immediately nostalgic and thought of Yousuf. Then I went out and bought ingredients. The funny thing is, I ate so much mee goreng when we first arrived in Malaysia that I actually got sick of it and started ordering anything but fried noodles. I guess it’s been long enough now that I’ve gotten over that. The great thing about this dish is that you can add whatever fresh green vegetables you have, and whatever kind of protein you like (chicken, tofu, shrimp, egg) and you’ve got a one-pan meal that takes less than an hour from start to finish (unless you really take your time). This would be best cooked in a large wok, but I don’t actually own one of those and mine turned out just fine.


Continue reading

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Cookbook Challenge & Leek Fritters

Because I didn’t get in to the program at UBC I wanted to this year, I need to keep busy until autumn, when I will begin applying again (and applying for other programs, elsewhere, probably). I am having one of those in-limbo life crises where I’m not sure what I need to do except that I know I need to change something, because what I’m doing isn’t working out for me the way I had hoped. Anyway, with that in mind, I am going to give myself a cookbook challenge.

That’s right, one of those absurd projects where you attempt to cook every single recipe in a given cookbook. Julie & Julia kind of stuff.

Ahem. I’ll give you a moment to think about how ridiculous this is. I have three part-time jobs and I’m taking an online human physiology course which I am hoping to finish over the summer, even though I technically have a whole year to complete it. Am I crazy? Probably. But my mother gave me Yotam Ottolenghi’s Plenty recently and I immediately opened it and started drooling. I thought to myself: “I should cook everything in this book.” So I think I’ll give it a go. I’m not making any hard and fast rules about it – I’ll attempt to finish up by next spring, which gives me a year, but it might go along the lines of three dishes one week and then nothing for two weeks. No set schedule. I certainly don’t expect to cook something from the book every day. I also don’t expect to have every single ingredient all the time and there may be a few substitutions. But I’ll try and blog about it when I can, and I’ll attempt to cook every recipe in there. I think there are 128 of them, although I may have miscounted. In any case, I’ll just check them off in pencil on the table of contents page when I’ve made them. I’m cool with some pencil marks in my fancy new book, and I can’t think of a more efficient way of keeping track. I’ve already made two of the recipes: Leek fritters and a chickpea sauté (meant to be served with Greek yoghurt, but I had leftover sauce from the leek fritters so I used that instead).

And so, without further ado – leek fritters! Continue reading

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Homemade Peanut Butter

I’d like to introduce my roommate Julia - physicist, concert violinist, child-minder, skydiver, and auteur. Multiple careers aside, she also makes a mean peanut butter. Without further ado:

Hello blag!

Well some of those things are true. Most importantly the peanut butter! Now I don’t know if making your own peanut butter is less expensive than buying. I’m sure if you get the cheapest butter on the shelf it’s less money than buying a sack of peanuts, but this recipe is not for that kind of peanut butter! This is natural, no-preservatives, etc…and that kinda stuff does cost more at the store.

So! What you’ll need is:

- peanuts (no shell, unsalted; blanched or roasted)
- oil (peanut, olive, canola…)

And that is all! The type of oil can be of your choosing – it won’t affect the flavour much so use whatever you have. You can roast the peanuts yourself if they’re un-roasted, but be warned, it will make the WHOLE HOUSE smell like peanuts fer dayz.

macro-nuts

Once your peanuts are ready, stick ‘em in a food processor. We don’t have a food processor, so I used the blender. If your blender is as crappy as ours, pour yourself a glass of wine too. You’ll see why in a sec.

soft glow filter?

Blend the peanuts for a bit until the blender stops working. Add a couple spoons of oil. Blend again. Shake blender. Stop the blending and push around peanuts with a spatula. Add more oil. Start blending. Stop blending. Drink some wine. Add more oil. Jab peanuts with spatula. Start blending. Notice the base of the blender is getting very warm. Stop the blender. Drink more wine. Try various speeds on blender in vain. Add more oil. Use other end of spatula. Start blender. Finally see some progress. Drink a celebratory sip of wine! Blend until desired consistency is reached (NOT shown below).

time-lapse yo

Alrighty so to summarize, blend some peanuts and add as much oil as you need to get the crunchiness/smoothness you want!

Anna made scones!

Super easy!

Cheers,

- Julia

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Butternut Squash with Bacon and Vinaigrette

I had this butternut squash resting on my counter for a while, tilted against the cookie jar in all its smooth, hourglassed glory. A couple of days ago, in mid-week hangry mode (that’s hunger+anger), I bought a package of bacon. And I realized these two things had come together in my kitchen for a reason.

First, peel and cube the squash, then roast with olive oil and sage at 350 degrees F for around an hour, tossing every 20 minutes or so. Just before the squash is done (it should be very soft), start frying the bacon. I used four slices for this, which served two people at lunch, and it definitely wouldn’t hurt to use more. Finally, once you’ve removed the bacon from the pan, cut a piece of bread into cubes and fry those in the bacon grease until crispy. The toss everything together in a bowl while still warm. There’s a good balance of sweet and salty, soft and crispy, sharp and mild.

We actually ended up making two dressings, one garlicky and one sweeter – the first was balsamic vinegar, olive oil, grainy mustard, and minced raw garlic. The second dressing was made with the same vinegar, oil, and mustard, and then maple syrup and some black pepper instead of the garlic. I found the sweeter one was better with the squash, while the first dressing worked best with the greens we had on the side.

P.S. I would like to thank my mother for growing the squash, and my friend Katie for eating it with me. Salud!

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